Mustang Suspension:


Here is the stock Mustang suspension.

Front Suspension Parts
The Images below are extracted from Luigi's .PDF files at Corner-Carvers ...
They can be obtained from This thread
There are 5 posts of interest:
1. ProE model   (from which I extracted the three views below.)
2. Component Measurements
3. Static Weight Measurements 
4. Roll Center height as a funct of deflt. and angle - Data and charts   
5. Camber VS Bump this is the only one of 8 pages of data on this I could find published.

Some other suspension/chassis threads to study:
1. The TCP stuff  (Corner-Carvers - with some analysis) PS - This is a great thread but the language lamp is lit up brightly! esp p4!
3. Chassis modification for stiffening
2. Carter Engineering mods to 65/66   Chassis rebuild and mods this is a complete tube chassis car.
1. update 1
2. update 2
3. update 3
4. update 4
5. update 5
6. update 7
7. update 8





FrontView       Side View

Top View

Here are some mods -

These are the mods figured out and done by "OpenTracker"

Drop the upper control arm ~2", modify the angle of the ball joint mount
I started work on a set of '65-'66 arms and took a few photos. This mod lets you lower the mounting point of the upper arm more than 1" (Shelby Drop). I have lowered the mounting point 1 3/4" on our car and this mod will keep the ball joint from binding upon full joust.
Photo 1 is the starting point. Measure from the back lip of the arm forward 8 1/4" ('65-'66 only) and make a mark on both sides. This mark should line up with the line of sight from one side to the other at the back of the ball joint dome. Place the magnetic angle finder on the mark you made on the top of the arm. This tells the line for your first cut.

Photo 2 showes the magnetic angle finder on the rivit heads lined up with the mark on the top of the arm. This tells the line for your second cut. The arm itself tells how much of a cut to make to bring the ball joint area in line with the top of the arm. You can go a little further if you want. I have done from 20deg to 28deg change in ball joint angle. A 20deg bend will bring the ball joint area in line with the top of the arm.

Photo 3 is the tool I made to bend the arm. I was using old ball joints but some of them broke so I made this. It works good.

The ball joint mounting area goes from this   to  this       .

Photo 4 is the brace for the underside of the arm. The blue tape shows where the   brace is inside the arm. The brace is spaced away from the arm with a piece of 3/8ID X 3/8" long piece of seamless tubing that is spot welded in place at the spring perch mounting points. This mod does require longer spring perch bolts.

   Photo 5 is of the arm almost done. The arm on the left is for my '65 Ranchero project that will use a more back spacing than a stock upper arm will allow. So I cut the front end off. The roller bearing spring perch has been fitted with longer bolts to fit the thicker arm.

   Photo 6 is the bottom of the finished arm with a new Moog K8036 ball joint and a roller bearing spring perch. You can see the roll bar gussets I use to brace the sides of the arm.

  Photo 7 is the top view of the finished arm. Looks almost stock.



As always I will be glad to help if someone wants to build this stuff. I call it my free wedge kit. It realy cost about $2 in material.


John
 
      Before                        After                         View of brace
Completed Upper Arm with corrected angle and brace installed.

       

 
Upper Arm with modified Spring Perch location